FAQs and First Blog!
So excited to introduce the first blog post for this site! We are so ready to start our adventures this fall, and we thought we'd throw in a little content before we headed out. We deeply appreciate all the support of our friends and family as we take this huge leap into the world, and we hope you all enjoy keeping up with all that we're doing!
When I left for Jordan last summer I tried desperately to find information about traveling to the Middle East (what to pack, what to wear, what to expect) but I could find very little, and what I did find I realized after I got to Jordan was not all that reliable. As a woman, a Westerner, and an unrepentant over-packer, there were many misconceptions that I carried with me into the Middle East. I decided when I came back that I should share my experiences, opinions, and advice online so that other people would have a source of information to look to as they prepared to go on their own journeys. Here are some of the questions that I find myself asked time and again, and some of the questions I had before setting out. *Disclaimer* These are my opinions, based on my own experiences and may be very different from the opinions or experiences of others.
About Our Trip:
Q. Where are you going?
A. We will be in Amman, the capital city of Jordan. Jordan is located just above the Arabian Penninsula, sandwiched between the West Bank, Saudi Arabia, Syria, and Iraq.
Q. How long will you be there?
A. The Jordanian school year runs from September-June. We'll be leaving the States on August 31st, with a return date unknown, but tentatively set for June 2016.
Q. What will you be doing?
A. Leah and I will be studying Arabic at the University of Jordan 20 hours a week, and all three of us will be interning at the UJ Center for Strategic Studies. Rob will be working hard teaching and keeping Leah and I fed with all the delicious food that we are going to force him to cook for us (it's his own fault for being such a good chef.) The rest of our plans are TBD.
Leah and I with our friend from UK between us, and three of our language partners from Jordan.
About Jordan/The Middle East:
Q. Is it safe?
A. While it is true that Jordan, wedged between the West Bank, Iraq, and Syria, is surrounded by crises, the country has an incredibly strong military, is a friend of many Western powers and its own neighbors, and has a beloved King and Queen. They are stable, safe, and very friendly to Westerners.
Q. Do you have to cover your hair/head?
A. In short, no. Even in Saudi Arabia covering is not required of foreigners to travel, and Jordan is significantly more liberal. While most women there do cover, it is not expected that you cover your hair at all times, unless you are in a masjid or if you feel unsafe or alone. The hijab (an Islamic head scarf) is an important cultural and religious item, and is very meaningful to Muslim women. While draping a scarf loosely around your head conveys modesty and respect, adopting a hijab is unnecessary and can be seen as disrespectful of religious and cultural heritage (so I have been told). I would recommend bringing a scarf around with you, whether to cover your hair or chest if you start to feel uncomfortable or enter a more conservative place that demands a higher level of modesty. Day to day activities and life in Jordan, and especially cities like Amman, will not require any kind of head covering.
Q. What should I wear?
A. While there are no laws or set-in-stone rules for clothes, the general rule of thumb is that the more modestly you dress, the less negative attention you will receive, and the more respectful you will come across. General guidelines: for men and women, you should be covered to the knee and past the shoulder (I found that men rarely if ever wore shorts, women generally stuck to maxi skirts/dresses or long pants, and that short sleeves is as short as you should go) and you should avoid showing cleavage, wearing sheer or see-through clothing, or clothes that are skin-tight (clothes that fit you well are OK, bodycon or clothes that appear to have been painted on: not OK). Again, there are no rules, but as a foreigner you will stick out as it is, and the more respectfully and modestly you dress the more respect you will receive, and the easier it will be to make your way around. Think about it this way: You might not be arrested in the U.S. if you walked around in a bikini every day, but it sure would make things uncomfortable. I think it's always nice to show respect and understanding of other cultures' standards of propriety and modesty, and I would recommend the same.
Q. Should blondes dye their hair? (Real question: Alix, are you going to dye your hair brown?)
A. Look to the last question: it's all about comfort. There are no rules or laws that are universal or set in stone. Being blonde does garner you significantly more attention, but if you are dressed respectfully and behave modestly, there's nothing to worry about (in fact, if you don't dress respectfully or behave modestly it doesn't really matter what color your hair is). My natural hair color is important to me and a part of my identity. I didn't dye my hair darker when I went to Jordan in 2014, and I don't plan to dye it this year either. Having brown hair might dial back the amount of attention you get slightly, but if you're clearly Western you're going to get attention anyway.
A sunrise in the desert. (Wadi Rum)
Q. I can't speak Arabic. Could I get around with English?
A. I would recommend in a MAJOR way that you try to learn a few words and phrases in Arabic before you go. While you by no means need to attempt to tackle learning the alphabet or being able to read Arabic, there are plenty of phoenetic sources to learn Arabic phrases. I'll be doing a blog post later on basic Arabic phrases that are useful when traveling. With that being said, a lot of people can and will speak to you in English, but it is considered rude to assume that they'll speak English with you, and will garner you a lot more good will if you attempt to speak in Arabic - even if it's just to say that you can't speak any.
Q. Will people dislike me because I'm American?
A. This was one that I was very concerned about before leaving, and one I've gotten from several prospective travelers. Again, look to the disclaimer: this is just my own opinion based on my own experiences. What I found was that this is not what you will encounter. By and large the response I received (as a very obviously Western female) was positive, inviting, and kind. As you would expect to find in any country you visit, attempts to understand and be respectful of your host country and culture go a long way to earning their respect, and there is not the large-scale dislike of Americans that I was expecting. The people of Jordan could, as I doubt many others can, distinguish between Americans and American foreign policy, and often showed interest in the U.S. and our reasons for coming to study Arabic.
Kindness begets kindness, and respect begets respect.The people in Jordan have a lot of love, hospitality, and goodness to give, so prepare yourself to show modesty, respect, and understanding in whichever ways you can and you will have a wonderful time!
Any other questions you want us to answer? Leave us comments below!
